Cricket sweaters, distressed baseball caps, and patchwork blankets—three pieces that might seem like the usual Ralph Lauren staples at first glance, but in this case, they are part of something much more meaningful. These garments belong to the new Polo Ralph Lauren for Oak Bluffs collection, a fashion and cultural moment that pays tribute to the rich legacy of the historically Black beach community of Oak Bluffs, located in Martha’s Vineyard, Massachusetts.
More than just a summer fashion drop, this collection is the continuation of Ralph Lauren’s broader mission to tell deeper, more inclusive American stories. It follows the footsteps of the brand’s 2022 capsule inspired by Historically Black Colleges and Universities, particularly Morehouse College and Spelman College. Those institutions, which have long played vital roles in shaping Black excellence, culture, and intellectual leadership, are once again key partners in the Oak Bluffs collection. But this time, the story moves from the historic campuses of Atlanta to the sandy shores and cozy cottages of one of America’s most treasured Black resort communities.
The Polo Ralph Lauren for Oak Bluffs line falls under the brand’s “Design with Intent” initiative, a portfolio aimed at intentionally crafting products and campaigns that broaden the traditional notions of Americana. And what better way to redefine Americana than by turning the spotlight to a seaside enclave where Black families have been retreating, relaxing, and creating memories for over a century?
Ralph Lauren himself has spoken with heartfelt emotion about what Oak Bluffs represents, calling it a place that embodies joy, freedom, and authenticity. In a statement, the designer described how the unique traditions and sense of community in Oak Bluffs inspire not only the collection but a broader conversation about identity and belonging. “Oak Bluffs’ unique history, traditions and sense of community deeply inspire me and speak to what we are all searching for – a place where you can be free, uncontrived, joyful and truly at home,” he said in a July press release.
The story of Oak Bluffs is as compelling as it is essential. Once part of Edgartown, the area was historically designated as the place “suitable” for Black workers who served guests at the island’s luxurious hotels. But what began as a segregated space turned into something extraordinary: a sanctuary for Black Americans during some of the most racially hostile periods in U.S. history. In 1912, Charles Shearer opened Shearer Cottage, an inn that became a haven for Black travelers who otherwise faced danger and humiliation when trying to secure lodging. As The Root pointed out, the inn was “an act of defiance in an America riddled with discrimination and racial segregation, where safe lodging for Black travelers was a rare luxury.”
That spirit of defiance turned into a generational legacy. Oak Bluffs evolved into a summertime hub for the Black elite, where names like Madame C.J. Walker, Dr. Martin Luther King Jr., Ethel Waters, and Lionel Richie could be spotted enjoying the simple pleasures of a day at the beach. A beach called the Inkwell became the heart of this community—a space where Black beachgoers could sunbathe, swim, and exist freely, without the suspicious glances or harassment that too often greeted them elsewhere.
Dr. Elaine Weintraub, a historian and co-founder of the Martha’s Vineyard African American Heritage Trail, has studied this community for decades. She describes Oak Bluffs as a place where young, educated, and affluent African Americans gathered—a who’s who of Black leadership, intellect, and creativity. It was a place that allowed its visitors not only to relax, but to feel proud, dignified, and whole. A place where culture thrived, and family histories were written in the sand.
This deep cultural resonance is what inspired James Jeter, Creative Director for Polo Men’s at Ralph Lauren, and Dara Douglas, Product and Brand Lead for Design with Intent. Both are HBCU alumni—Jeter from Morehouse and Douglas from Spelman—and their lived experiences helped shape a collection that is deeply respectful and layered. According to Jeter, Ralph Lauren as a brand holds an enormous responsibility: “With that comes this incredible responsibility for us to tell these incredible American stories as fully, as broadly, as accurately as possible,” he told USA Today.
The Oak Bluffs collection accomplishes just that. It infuses classic Ralph Lauren design with visual storytelling that speaks to intergenerational pride and heritage. Pieces in the line reflect campus style—think tailored chinos, crisp polo shirts, and those iconic cricket sweaters—but with a twist of relaxed, coastal elegance. The campaign imagery tells a story of summer leisure: Black families lounging on porches, riding bicycles, and enjoying time by the sea. Jeter described the visual tone as “intentionally less serious” than the 2022 collection, leaning into a joyful, multi-generational interpretation of life on the Vineyard.
Douglas added an important philosophical layer to the meaning behind the clothes. Too often, she noted, the Black body is portrayed in motion—on stage, on the field, in moments of performance. But rest? Leisure? Peace? Those are rarely centered in portrayals of Black life. “So you constantly see the Black body in motion, but this notion of rest and relaxation as a space that the Black body could occupy—I think is quite revolutionary,” she said.
Ralph Lauren’s documentary “A Portrait of the American Dream: Oak Bluffs,” which premiered July 24 on YouTube, serves as a poetic companion to the collection. Directed by Cole Brown, the short film features voices of local historians, residents, and cultural figures who unpack the layered meanings of this unique Black enclave. Among them is Dr. Lawrence E. Carter Sr., Dean of the Martin Luther King Jr. International Chapel, who speaks to the spiritual and historical depth of the community. “How Martha’s Vineyard became Martha’s Vineyard has an awful lot to do with traffic, who came through here and by coming through here bequeathed something,” he says in the film.
The narrative of Oak Bluffs is deeply spiritual, deeply nostalgic, and deeply aspirational. Dorothy West, the youngest writer of the Harlem Renaissance and a longtime summer resident of Oak Bluffs, once said, “I thought there was always summer here.” That quote perfectly captures the eternal quality of the place—how it holds memories like sunlight in glass, always shimmering just beneath the surface.
In March, Netflix’s show “Forever” spotlighted Oak Bluffs in an episode called “The Vineyard,” bringing the story to a new generation. The episode showed the vibrant community that still exists, where tradition and progress blend seamlessly. It’s a living, breathing culture—one that continues to nurture the Black experience in all its richness.
As fashion continues to grapple with diversity and authenticity, Ralph Lauren’s continued commitment to “Design with Intent” is a notable counterpoint to a troubling trend. In recent years, many brands have quietly stepped away from Diversity, Equity, and Inclusion (DEI) efforts amid political pressure and cultural backlash. But Jeter and Douglas have made it clear: Ralph Lauren is not backing down. “We intended to stick to that,” Jeter said. “We are the leaders. So we look not outside of ourselves, but we look toward our purpose to be the guiding light to the kind of stories that we tell.”
And that’s what makes this collection not just stylish, but powerful. It tells a story that many Americans have never heard, and it does so with beauty, care, and emotional honesty. It opens the door for a wider understanding of what it means to be American—one that includes the sun-soaked porches of Oak Bluffs, the laughter of multi-generational families at the Inkwell, and the resilient elegance of a people who have always found ways to create joy, even in the face of exclusion.
As the waves of the Atlantic continue to kiss the shores of Martha’s Vineyard, and as another generation of Black families pack their suitcases for summer in Oak Bluffs, Ralph Lauren’s collection stands as both tribute and invitation. It invites all of us to expand our vision of American heritage, to embrace stories that were always there but never centered, and to understand that sometimes, the most radical thing we can do is to simply sit on a porch, breathe in the salt air, and just be.
